10.15.2006...To Abu and Back Again

Namaste!

We returned late last evening from a 36-hour road trip to Mt. Abu in Rajasthan.

The most remarkable thing about this trip were the stunning visual effects. I found myself quietly watching the roadside over the hours we passed. And of course I took a lot of snaps.

The journey is broken out into five easy installments...

~~Part I: We're On Our Way~~

Our first destination was to be Rani Ki Vav. A very old stepwell located at Patan in Gujarat. As we drove I thought it best to try to capture the experience visually rather than try simply narrate it through words. Although in this ALBUM I did add a fair number of thoughts and explanations for what I saw.


I love the Indian countryside and roadways. The people are so colorful and active. I find that I often have to remind myself of the terrible quality-of-life situations many of these people are facing. During one stop for chai we discussed what a person in India could do with a monthly income of Rs. 500 or even Rs. 1000 (About $10-$20). Not much. The only things that seem cheap and affordable to everyone are poor quality food and movies. Just enough to keep the masses quelled I suppose. And if they don't have enough to eat or entertain themselves with then they are quiet from their hunger.

Now I haven't seen too much of that abject poverty in the more rural settings as most people there appear to be somewhat self-sustained. Poverty is much more stark in places like Ahmedabad because of the contrasting wealth and commerce AND the inability to be self-sustaining in an urban setting.

~~Part II: Rani Ki Vav~~

Rani ki vav has a most amazing story. In the mid-1970's a farmer ploughing his field came across some metal sticking up from the ground. He contacted the local officials. An excavation was begun and Rani ki vav was unearthed. This stepwell is 7 stories down and full of wonderful stone carvings depicting scenes from nature and of the Gods.
The guide told us that the stepwell had been partially covered by mud from the nearby Banasa river during a flood and then deliberately covered entirely to protect it from invading Mughals.

Mughals were Muslim and as is in the tradition of Islamic artwork there was a lack of human depiction due to the fact that early Islam forbade the painting of human images as it might tempt followers into practicing idolatry. As a result when the Mughals came, they often defaced or destroyed any artform that depicted a human-like figure.

The carvings on the first level of the vav were a bit worn, but the ones below which were preserved were magnificent.

Two carvings in particular that I snapped photos of were the goddess Durga and Vamana, and incarnation of Krishna.

Here's the ALBUM for you to enjoy.

~~Part III: Into Rajasthan and Up to Abu~~

After Rani Ki Vav we made our way into Rajasthan and up to Mt. Abu. Again the roadside scenery (ALBUM) continued to cause me to reflect on the human condition. I sometimes struggle with the notion that all peoples in this world should be trying to get to the same place on this material plane. If all of the Earth's inhabitants lived like Americans did (which is touted as the main drive for US foreign policy, but I think that's a blatant misnomer), then Earth would be in a poor state of affairs in no time.

Why do 'we' have to demean the idea of being a laborer? Laboring for oneself seems like a fine idea. It just so happens that when that labor is sold to someone else, that being a laborer becomes inferior. No one inherently is born into servitude (although many would argue otherwise), but if it is a chosen path to serve others, then why is it cheapened? Those who benefit from the cheap labor and abusive labor practices that exist in this global marketplace (especially Americans) are sooo easily convinced of the superiority of their lives in comparison to those that work to make those lives possible. Preserving the status quo isn't limited to a few in power and with wealth...keep that in mind.

However, in acknowledging this I'd like to say that there are MANY fine people and organizations everywhere trying to bring awareness to these matters and dignity to those who are otherwise robbed of it.

~~Part IV: First Night in Abu~~

Mt. Abu is a very lovely hill area, there is now doubt. However, one cannot escape the reality of all of India. There is still plenty of rubbish around, but you get a sense that the quality of life overall is better.

In the center of this area is lovely Nakki lake. At either side of the township are sheer cliffs from which you can see the valleys below.

Let me have the pictures do the talking here. ALBUM.

In the evening we passed the time playing cards and talking. It was an incredibly enjoyable experience that reminded me of many evenings and afternoons I had passed with my grandmothers when I was a child.

~~Part V: Second Day, Jain Temples and the Ride Home~~

The next morning I awoke to the quieting crickets and the crowing rooster. The city started coming alive slowly. I laid in bed for awhile just enjoying the sensual experience of the sounds, the smell of small cooking fires, and watched the sunlight creep across the paint-blistered wall.

On the balcony I did breathing exercises called pranayam and watched as small wisps of vapor escaped my lips. I never thought I'd see that in India. I was so moved I penned 12 pages in my journal about that first morning hour.

Our sightseeing for the day consisted of the Dilwara Jain temples. One cannot take photos inside, but I was able to catch a couple from beyond the walls.

Inside were the most magnificent carvings in marble. Huge ceiling panels with layers of marble shapes, flowers, god figures and so on. The details were fine down to the fingernails on the tips of the goddesses fingers.
Many of the figures had been defaced (noses cut off) by Muslim invaders. The Jains try to make their temples quite plain from the outside so as not to attract attention to the wealth of art on the interior.

After the temples we ate lunch and started back home. ALBUM.

~~~
To say the least this was another awe-inspiring experience.
~~~

Peace,

A Pink American