12.7.2006...A Day for the Arts in Delhi

After staying up till the wee hours of the morning putting together four days worth of posting, I figured it would be better to give a little each day.

Today we had one main aim and that was the National Museum of Modern Art.

Naturally we stopped at other sights along the way such as the India Gate...

The Indian Secretariat buildings...

And the President's house, also known as Rashtrapati Bhavan....

This was just one of several cool pillars topped by tough tuskers keeping watch!

How come the White House doesn't have statues of fierce Eagles surrounding the property? Oh right eagle vs. elephant, the imbalance in 'coolness' is quite clear now.

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After losing our way over the 1km between where we were and where we were going, we landed up at the National Museum of Modern Art. Out front a number of sculptures were on display.

This one was of particular interest because I was left wondering whether the artist had formed the block of marble or found it like this and decided that the head and feet were needed.

Inside the museum there was an exhibition called "Edge of Desire: Recent Art in India."

Most of the pieces in this exhibition addressed the issues of violent religious tensions and India's courtship between tradition and modernity. Here are some examples:

Nilima Sheikh and Subhash Singh Vyam

Coca Cola cap sari.

Another artist who I enjoyed immensely was Amrita Sher-Gil. She met with an unnaturally early death, but managed to produce some very fine art before then.

I have to admit that I am often hard pressed to understand the motivations of modern artists. Many of the exhibitions that I've seen in the U.S. and Europe leave my mind reeling with one question: why?

This exhibition, however, was crystal clear to me. The themes the artists were addressing were big ones. Life and death and the definition of progress. Ones that are informed by large scale social experiences which are then condensed down into the vantage point of the artist. While these were personal expressions, I didn't feel I was missing out on some big secret.

Many modern Western artists often seem to be revealing an insight to a very personal struggle with a larger social creature. This raw exposure is contextually difficult for me to sometimes a) fathom or b) care about. Today I realized it was largely do to the 'fact' that the struggles often depicted aren't mortal ones. Rather, they are often so specific or abstract and can only really speak to a small number of people who feel they have shared the same abstract experience. This isn't to say that their turmoils are of any less intrinsic value to them, after all suffering is suffering. However, it is to say that they are so niched that they often miss the mark of conveying their message.

I can say that I do credit Western artists for trail blazing the endeavor of developing art styles that allowed for a more overt personal expression. From impressionism to cubism to modern and contemporary art commentaries, the Western artist did contribute significantly to the 'art world' as a whole.

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On the return leg of the outing we passed by a mandir village, of sorts. It was filled with dozens of temples and shrines to all sorts of Hindu gods.



This hanuman was at least 50ft tall if not more...



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Once back at the Club we met up with Surnish and Papa. First tea and then dinner followed. Upon returning to our room, Surnish and I found that our laundry had been returned.

Now, you know this must be good if I'm talking laundry.

Two bags and a pile of plastic-ed and pressed clothes awaited us.

Each and every item had been sealed in a plastic bag. Most had tissue neatly placed between the folds. The work shirts were given cardboard collar supports. It was THE MOST decadent and thorough laundry service I have ever been privileged too.

The only thing was I was concerned about their claim...

Perhaps the process was eco-friendly but what about all the plastic?

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And finally I had to add a picture of Surnish. He was enjoying some coffee as he was continuing to cope with working nights. I think he's doing a bang up job and looks pretty good to boot!

All the best to you all as this day draws to a close.

Peace,

A Pink American

12.7.2006...1-2-3 Delhi Days

Well it is only technically the 7th as it is only just a bit past midnight as I start this.

We have been three days in Delhi and busy busy busy...

Let's begin.

Monday 12-4 Getting Acquainted:

I feel as if this day was all about being one with the traffic of Delhi. It was outrageous. Having sat in traffic in Mumbai and Kolkata as well, I can't say any are truly better than each of the others. Of course everyone here seems to have an opinion...Kolkata gets knocked on the most. It didn't feel like there was more gridlock, but the pollution from the vehicles seemed worse.

I will say that Delhi does get props for having proper freeway interchanges in some places. I haven't seen more than a basic flyover with street exits in any other city.

Enough about the traffic already.

We casually spent the day exploring a couple of places.

First stop was the Bangla Sahib Gurdwara. It was the loveliest Gurdwara I've seen yet...although I feel bad for it in that I will being seeing Amritsar soon and I don't know that any other Gurdwara can match that.

Afterwards we partook in some shop-sight seeing. After looking in EVERY state emporium I realized I was DONE with shopping for handicrafts. Each emporium did have locally represented items, but most also had items from many of the other states as well.

The best thing I saw was this...a YAK wool shawl. It was rough to the touch, but very smooth when my hand ran down it.

We also drove in the area of the capitol buildings.



Much of the rest was a blur to me as I was tired and was having too much info (is that possible?) fed to me.

Tuesday 12-5: Passing the Minutes Until Surnish

Well maybe I wasn't feeling quite that desperate, but I was really excited to see Surnish after 2 months.

In the meantime we began the day a with a visit to the Red Fort, aka Delhi Fort.

Not only is this a marvelously massive structure from the front, but the interior grounds are filled with many smaller daily and religious use buildings.

Here we have the hall for complaints and concerns...the ruler used to sit on the white platform in the background.

And here we have a Texan family visiting India. I really dug the cowboy hat. It totally says "don't mess with Texas!"

This was part of a rather long seating area that used to overlook the Yumana river. That is until the river receded out of view. Most of these panels used to be inlaid with precious and semi-precious stones. Thanks to the British, they were ripped off and now sit in museums and their store rooms in the UK.
Most of the colors you can see are from glass replacements.

This is where you would have seen the river if it were still close by.

The architecture of the Mugahl rulers of India is really quite phenomenal. I cannot forget the fact that they defiled so much of the older Hindu art and architecture though, as is often the case with invaders.

It is a real shame that peoples in the past couldn't see the beauty in all art and then simply proliferate their own when they ruled instead of destroying so much. In fact it is a shame that this still happens today.

For all of the day's pics check out the ALBUM.

The rest of the day passed with eating lunch and shopping at Connaught Place, before heading to visit a cousin of mummy's.

From there we went to the airport and picked up Surnish.

His flight was a little late, but when we saw him it was the best feeling.

I have to say, I don't think that I'd stay away from my husband this long ever again, BUT in doing so the level of appreciation I have for his mere presence around me has grown by at least 100 times over.

Even though he is 'around' you won't be seeing him in day pics for the next few days as he is working nights here until Friday.

Wednesday 12-6: Day 3 Delhi

Today we headed to the Qutb Minar, at the Qutb Minar complex.

Hands down this is one of the coolest structures I have seen in the world. It really is so amazing in color, shape and artistic elements.

Many of the other structures of the complex were equally awe inspiring.

It is really best to look at the full ALBUM from the day and read about the site in order to appreciate it.

After the Qutb Minar, we headed to Haus Kauz village. I was told that control of development of this area was given by Indira Gandhi to her primary clothing designer. It was meant to be a place for cottage industry craftspeople to converge and work on their craft. However, it has become quite a tourist draw today and doesn't necessarily resemble the idea of a crafting cooperative.

On the outer perimeter of the village are very old structures that were part of the original settlement, likely. They curve around a modest lake which was then used for bathing, as I was told.

I didn't think it would be possible, but as we got into the car I confirmed my previous realization of being done with handicrafts. I love Indian wares...LOVE THEM. But they are so pervasive in every tourist stop and the variety is almost identical from one place to the next...well I've simply lost the drive.

It isn't sad as you might think, and I will somehow manage to enjoy my last month here despite this epiphany.

Our final stop was the Bahia Temple. This building is in the shape of a giant lotus. Inside it is nearly all white marble with a 9-point geometric structural design that repeats itself from the smallest star in the ceiling to the largest exterior lotus petals.

The acoustics are so perfect from the design and marble used, that you feel as if a whisper of thought to god could be conducted straight up to heaven. It really was a lovely place.

Final thoughts for the day...I need to sleep. But seriously, I'm really enjoying Delhi. It makes me think of how so many people go to New York and think that's America. I've seen so many Westerners here and they will likely not see a fraction of the rest of India that I've seen. It really gives me pause in appreciation for being able to sample India as a main course rather than as an appetizer.

Until I post again...

Peace,

A Pink American

Delhi Day 2 Album
Delhi Day 3 Album