Sunday

12.10.2006...A Day Early on the Road




Well we hit the road again.

We are heading north and hope to visit Shimla in our tour.

Sorry I don't have more time to write today...and the pictures aren't uploading either.

In brief, we visited a cousin-brother of mummy's yesterday and met up with Gagan, Surnish's cousin.

In the evening we attended Surnish's India-office party. It was a lot of fun and I met some very lovely people.

Look for a report (and pictures) once we return to Gandhinagar.

All the best!

Peace,

A Pink American

Friday

12.8.2006...Jantar Mantar and a Little More

Another day in Delhi.

I suppose I shouldn't let it sound so routine or drab. Let's start again...

A glorious winter morning in Delhi greeted me. The chill of the morning air caused me to consider bringing a sweater out with me today. It could be readily compared to a sunny spring day in Seattle in feel and light.

However the similarity was to end with that alone.

Entering the city today gave us a view of an elephant battling the traffic jam. I must say that it seemed to be fairing better than we were at the time we saw it.



We made our way to the Connaught Place area to a music instrument store that mummy used to patronize as a youth. In fact it has been in place for over 120 years. We were searching for a smaller set of Kathak bells for me to take home. The ones I trained with were literally 5-7lbs on each ankle and the bells were so large that I cut my foot on them twice during some of the moves.

Next to this music shop was a interesting store called People Tree:



This place is like many in that it is supplied by a series of worker cooperatives. It isn't merely general handicarfts, though. It has a more focused and contemporary collection of items. Some of the crafts were surely directed to be created in this way.

Later we also went to the Jan Path shopping area on the outer rim of Connaught Place. This area was the first time that I encountered a wide variety of export-quality goods.
This trip as well as with the last to India left me wondering why all the cool stuff was sent to Pier One Imports or Cost Plus World Market in the U.S.
In this area I literally saw things that I had purchased in the States. It was like find a long lost twin that one didn't know existed. Well perhaps not that overwhelming, but something along those lines nonetheless.



The big trip of the day was Jantar Mantar. This place is really amazing. It is a combination of large scaled instruments used to map and measure celestial bodies. It is one of several across India in the 1700's.








After dusting off the red dust of the fresh paint we made our way to lunch at McDonalds. Yes it was only the first time since I've been here. Even though it is 'fast food' here it doesn't' seem as bad because the food choices are more veg friendly and 'appear' healthier. As a note to my fellow Americans, well to the ones who eat beef, you will not be getting any Big Macs in India.



On the way home I finally remembered to snap the construction of this mall. It claims 1km of shopping on each level. There were 7 levels. That's 4.5 miles of shops. Not too shabby by Western standards, but insane by present Indian ones. However, this is becoming less uncommon as the middle-class increases in this country.

In the foreground of this image you will notice some corrugated steel sheets standing on their side end. Just behind these are shanties improvised for the construction workers of this massive project. I could see people showering and cooking. Laundry was drying as well. On the top of one of the roofs stood a woman with her child looking out at the construction.



My overall impression of these large development projects, at least from the perspective of the day laborer, is that they are quite the same as those in the U.S. There is a want for a quick turn around and a need for as much cheap labor as possible. It's amazing how humans all over the world are capable of seeing others as expendable and replaceable when generating wealth for themselves is concerned.
It's funny that Karl Marx seriously tried to rationally address this issue in a way that could have possibly offered a new and pragmatic approach to understanding human and labor relations. However, this was corrupted by the reality of human limitations with regard to stemming greed and overcoming power lust. Perhaps someday we will get it right, whether it's Marx's way or not I don't know and I don't think it really matters. So long as it happens and those who herald it in are strong in character and open in mind.

Take care!

Peace,

A Pink American




Thursday

12.7.2006...A Day for the Arts in Delhi


A
fter staying up till the wee hours of the morning putting together four days worth of posting, I figured it would be better to give a little each day.

Today we had one main aim and that was the National Museum of Modern Art.

Naturally we stopped at other sights along the way such as the India Gate...



The Indian Secretariat buildings...



And the President's house, also known as Rashtrapati Bhavan....



This was just one of several cool pillars topped by tough tuskers keeping watch!



How come the White House doesn't have statues of fierce Eagles surrounding the property? Oh right eagle vs. elephant, the imbalance in 'coolness' is quite clear now.

~~~

After losing our way over the 1km between where we were and where we were going, we landed up at the National Museum of Modern Art. Out front a number of sculptures were on display.

This one was of particular interest because I was left wondering whether the artist had formed the block of marble or found it like this and decided that the head and feet were needed.




Inside the museum there was an exhibition called "Edge of Desire: Recent Art in India."

Most of the pieces in this exhibition addressed the issues of violent religious tensions and India's courtship between tradition and modernity. Here are some examples:






Nilima Sheikh and Subhash Singh Vyam



Coca Cola cap sari.

Another artist who I enjoyed immensely was Amrita Sher-Gil. She met with an unnaturally early death, but managed to produce some very fine art before then.


I have to admit that I am often hard pressed to understand the motivations of modern artists. Many of the exhibitions that I've seen in the U.S. and Europe leave my mind reeling with one question: why?

This exhibition, however, was crystal clear to me. The themes the artists were addressing were big ones. Life and death and the definition of progress. Ones that are informed by large scale social experiences which are then condensed down into the vantage point of the artist. While these were personal expressions, I didn't feel I was missing out on some big secret.

Many modern Western artists often seem to be revealing an insight to a very personal struggle with a larger social creature. This raw exposure is contextually difficult for me to sometimes a) fathom or b) care about. Today I realized it was largely do to the 'fact' that the struggles often depicted aren't mortal ones. Rather, they are often so specific or abstract and can only really speak to a small number of people who feel they have shared the same abstract experience. This isn't to say that their turmoils are of any less intrinsic value to them, after all suffering is suffering. However, it is to say that they are so niched that they often miss the mark of conveying their message.

I can say that I do credit Western artists for trail blazing the endeavor of developing art styles that allowed for a more overt personal expression. From impressionism to cubism to modern and contemporary art commentaries, the Western artist did contribute significantly to the 'art world' as a whole.

~~~~

On the return leg of the outing we passed by a mandir village, of sorts. It was filled with dozens of temples and shrines to all sorts of Hindu gods.



This hanuman was at least 50ft tall if not more...



~~~

Once back at the Club we met up with Surnish and Papa. First tea and then dinner followed. Upon returning to our room, Surnish and I found that our laundry had been returned.

Now, you know this must be good if I'm talking laundry.

Two bags and a pile of plastic-ed and pressed clothes awaited us.



Each and every item had been sealed in a plastic bag. Most had tissue neatly placed between the folds. The work shirts were given cardboard collar supports. It was THE MOST decadent and thorough laundry service I have ever been privileged too.

The only thing was I was concerned about their claim...



Perhaps the process was eco-friendly but what about all the plastic?

~~~

And finally I had to add a picture of Surnish. He was enjoying some coffee as he was continuing to cope with working nights. I think he's doing a bang up job and looks pretty good to boot!



All the best to you all as this day draws to a close.

Peace,

A Pink American